Three cups of Tea & Mukhtar Mai

I spent about 18 days away from home in Uttarkashi in connection with a program evaluation. The first little hotel, I stayed in, in Joshiyada, was fine- but suddenly after about 9 days, they asked me to vacate. Reason: the Gangotri pilgrimage was to begin (Kapat- doors opened) and the hotel had prior tourist booking. These 4-5 months of pilgrim season, to which, almost all the economic activity is geared in Garhwal, can be tough on an unsuspecting visitor. People who had been lazily playing cards or -now for some years, carom board, suddenly become very perky and enterprising! Roads are full of traffic, shanty shops spring up over night, tourists from plains stopping and cooking, bathing, sleeping, by the road side in all unlikely places! This is a total transformation of our scenic calm Garhwal. You should travel here during Yatra season only if you are Mark Tully- out for a good story (vide infra). Actually, I prefer visiting off season- you get discount as well as the whole place to yourself! OR, I would rather go to some remote valley in Zanskar.
(below- 3 panoramic pics of the forest where I camped..)

Anyway, while in Uttarkashi, I read a beautiful book : Three cups of tea. Story of a failed attempt at K2 in northern Pakistan (Baltistan)- and how it leads one American to initiate a major school building drive in a remote area (something like our Laddakh). This was his answer to a deeper search for meaning and fulfilment in life. Truly amazing saga- described very honestly. He rightly thinks that building schools is a better way of dealing with terrorism. A failed mountaineer, a man unsure of himself- very unlikely hero for a Penguin book. But great insights. A must read for anyone interested in inner transformation and stories of genuine women and men across the border.

Another story, I read was that of Mukhtar Mai of Pakistan. It was an abridged version of a book by a western journalist in Reader's digest. Mukhtar mai is a brave (=spiritual) young woman, a victim of gang rape ordered by a village council, who decides to live (was expected to commit suicide) and take the perpetrators to court. She starts even a counselling center for rape victims in her village and a school for girls. Amazing and true story. In most Asian societies, rape is a taboo subject. No one talks about it. So victims too are forced to keep quiet. Hence the problem continues. A vicious downward cycle. If people could be helped to talk, the feeling of oppression will be much less. Perpetrators too will get educated slowly- as to how their actions affect others. The whole society will benefit.

I took some pictures in Uttarkashi: I was trying it out and took some pictures. Forgive the enthusiasm of an amateur with a new digital camera!
(Below- a sadhu at Nachiketa tal and joys of finding a camp site and pitching the tent every evening)

(* Mark Tully, the BBC reporter in India for many years.)